Pack 4

Identify the pieces that make up frames 26 to 31.

Construct frames 26 to 31 using the templates provided.

Insert and glue the frames 26 to 31 in their final positions. Make sure that they are correctly positioned.

Cut to size and glue pieces 4.13 to 4.16 (5 x 5mm), as shown in the picture.

Cut to size and glue parts 4.17 (3 x 3 mm) as shown in the picture.

Take a ø8mm rod and at one end reduce its diameter to ø6mm.

Use part 4.19 to align part 4.18 with part MT125.

Then glue part 4.18 permanently.

Cut parts 4.20 to 4.24 (5 x 5mm) to length and glue them in place.

Cut to length and glue parts 4.25 and 4.26 (3 x 3 mm) in place.

Glue a part 4.28 centred on part 4.27.

Check that you have the correct ring by test-fitting it onto the ø8mm mast MT125.

Present the centring assembly with parts MT125 and 4.19.

Fit and glue parts 4.27 and 4.28.

Cut to length and glue parts 4.29 to 4.34 (5 x 5mm) to the corresponding frames.

Cut to length and glue the pieces 4.35 (3 x 3mm).

Sand the top of the parts to even their surface.

Before proceeding, look at the images in steps 2–11 for an overview of cutting and fitting parts 4.36.

Cut parts 4.36 to length. Make sure the cut is as straight as possible.

Use a pencil to shade the four edges of each piece.

Lay out the parts as shown in the picture to check the joints.

Glue three pieces 4.36 centred on the structure so that their joints coincide on a batten.

Continue gluing pieces 4.36 to complete the length of the structure. It is important that the pieces are glued close together to achieve a good finish.

See in the picture how the parts should look once they have been fixed.

Complete seven lines of parts 4.36. Use a cutting knife to cut out the pieces that cover the path of the mast.

Use a file to adjust the mast hole.

See in the picture how the aft part will look.

Use a sand block to even out the surfaces of the parts.

In the central part of the structure, glue the parts 4.36.

Even out the surfaces with a sanding block.

Glue parts 4.28 and 4.38 onto parts 4.27 and 4.37.

Check the fit of the parts.

Glue the parts centred over the holes in the masts.

Fit and glue part 4.39.

Fit and glue the parts 4.40.

Fit and glue the parts 4.41.

Fit and glue parts 4.42 and 4.43.

Glue the pieces 4.44 and 4.45 together as shown in the picture.

Check the fit of the assembly to the structure.

Glue the assembly together permanently.

Insert parts 1.31 to align the frames. Glue part 4.46.

Glue the parts 4.47.

Glue the parts 4.48.

Glue parts 4.49 and 4.50.

This picture shows the parts in place.

Glue parts 4.51 to 4.53.

Glue parts 4.54 to 4.57 to the structure.

Read through steps 9 to 11 before you start sanding.

Start sanding the frames with a sanding block and medium grit sandpaper. It is important that you sand while holding the decks with one hand to immobilise the frames and prevent them from breaking. You should sand smoothly and progressively, smoothing the edges of the frames, without losing their original profile.

Sanding should start from the front of the hull and working towards the rear.

You should sand in one direction only, i.e. press down on the sanding block when moving forward and loosen it when moving backwards to avoid snagging on a frame.

Then sand from the rear towards the front.

Use masking tape to secure the hull structure to the mounting base.

Apply tape at several points to ensure that it is firm and immobile.

See the picture showing the fixing points of the tape.

It is advisable to place the hull on foam or fabric to cushion the movement and protect the frames from breaking.

Use a half-round file to complete the sanding on the curved areas at the rear of the hull.

Take three or four 2x5mm strips and sand them.

This model boat is designed to leave the underside of the hull unlined so that the interior of the hull structure can be seen.

If you wish to line the underside, do not apply glue – go straight to stage 17 step 5. Do not plank this section of the stern. This will be planked with mahogany in pack 6. See the pack 6 instructions in the Download Centre to find out more.

If you do not wish to line the underside, apply super glue as shown.

Glue a 4.63 piece in place.

Glue three more pieces 4.63.

Glue two more pieces 4.63 together.

Cut off the excess battens flush with the sides of the hull.

Sand the ends of the battens to match the hull.

Sand the battens following the inclination of the aft parts.

Make two wedges with a 2x5mm strip.

Use a sanding block to adjust each wedge.

Insert and glue the wedges.

Sand the stern battens to achieve a smooth surface as shown in the picture.

Place part 4.64 on top of the upper beams and secure it there. Use a marker pen to mark a line above the part on the outside of the frames.

This should be done on both sides of the hull and along its entire length.

Soak a pair of sanded 4.65 battens (2 x 5 x 600 mm) in water for about 15 minutes. This will make them more flexible.

Dry the battens with blotting paper, and use an iron to bend the battens slightly. You should lift the batten as you apply heat to it.

Present the batten in the mid-hull area just below the line you drew with part 4.64. It must make contact with all the frames on its course.

Apply white glue to the areas of the frames where the part 4.65 will make contact.

Position the 4.65 batten so that it reaches from the centre of frame 18 to beyond the fore false keel. Keep the part immobilized with clamps or similar until the glue dries.

After the glue has dried, use an electric drill to drill ø0.75 mm holes at the intersection between the frames and the batten.

You can perform the same operation with a manual drill.

Apply glue and insert an A-nail into each hole. The tips should only be inserted as far as they will hold the batten in place, not all the way in.

Then, when the glue has dried, cut the ends flush with the batten.

Use a flat file to flush the ends with the batten.

Cut the batten close to the centre piece of the hull.

Glue another 4.65 batten in line with the previous batten, running from the centre of frame 18 to the rear of the hull.

Do the same on the other side of the hull to achieve a symmetrical finish. Note that a 5 mm-wide gap must be maintained in the centre.

Note how the battens should be fitted aft of the hull.

Apply white glue to the full length of another 4.65 batten.

Glue the batten to start another line of planking above the previous one. The same processes should be repeated on both sides of the hull to achieve a symmetrical finish.

You must vary the joints between the slats so that they do not always coincide in the same frame.

Cut off any excess battens flush with the stern of the hull.

Fit five more lines of planking with the 4.65 pieces. Cut the battens leaving 5 mm at the bow.

Cut off any excess battens flush with the stern of the hull.

Continue to line the hull in the bow area, but without nailing points. This area of the hull is more fragile and should be held in place with clamps.

Note in the picture the inside of the bow planking.

Cut the ends of the battens leaving 10 mm space in the bow area.

Cut the ends of the battens leaving 8mm of space in the aft area.