Pack 6

If you do not like the colour of the barrels, you can paint them. First apply primer.

Paint the barrels black.

Use the dry brush technique to highlight the reliefs of the barrels with red paint.

Apply glue and fix the barrels on the gun carriages.

This is what the barrel will look like on the gun carriage.

Remove the parts 5.13 from the brass sheet.

Use a brass rod and flat pliers to shape the parts 5.13.

Apply glue and fix the parts 5.13 on the barrel shafts.

With these cannons and the ones you built earlier, you should have 30 complete units.

Lay pieces 6.1 in a criss-cross pattern to build up the grating.

You will need to build a complete grid. Reinforce the intersecting points with quick-drying glue.

Count the holes in the part so that you can cut it accurately. Remove the part shown in the picture.

Use a sanding block to smooth the sides of the piece.

Cut to length parts 6.2 (18 mm) and 6.3 (22 mm) from 2 x 3 mm strips (supplied with pack 4).

Glue the aligned pieces together as shown in the picture. Sand the sides to smooth them.

Varnish the parts.

Glue parts 6.5 to parts 6.4.

If you wish to paint the 6.4 and 6.6 barrels, prime them first.

Then paint them black.

Drybrush the reliefs with red paint.

Sand parts 6.7 and 6.8 (supplied in pack 5) and glue them together as shown.

You should make 7 identical sets. Apply varnish.

Use pliers to open the eyebolts B and rings H (supplied in pack 5), link them together, then close them and cut the excess of the eyebolts.

Drill holes in the carronade bases and insert and glue the parts shown in the picture.

Cut to length and glue parts 6.9 (ø 1.5 x 4 mm) to the bottom of the carronade bases.

Cut parts 6.10 to length (2 x 2 x 10 mm mahogany, supplied in pack 5). Add parts 6.10 and 6.11 (supplied in pack 4).

Fit parts 6.12 (supplied in pack 5) to a cannon barrel. Insert and glue the parts 6.12 into the carronade bases.

Make and glue the axles 6.13. In total you should be able to build 7 complete carronades.

Bend the hinges 5.13 (supplied with pack 4) with a pair of pliers.

Position and glue the two 6.6 canon barrels on the gun carriages. Add the parts 5.13.

The picture shows the appearance of the three types of armament carried on this ship:

6.4 = 32-pound carronades

6.6 = 18-pound bow chasers

5.12 = 24-pound cannons

Separate the frame from the mounting base and place it with the legs facing upwards on foam or rags to protect it. Cut the legs off the frames.

Now it is time to sand the lower part of the hull that will be visible without lining. Start sanding the areas where you cut the legs.

It must be sanded smooth until there is no trace of the legs.

Then sand the aft area to adjust the frames to the natural curvature of the hull.

The bow area should look more or less as shown in the picture. If you want to plank the lower part of the hull, now is the time to do it before adding more parts to your model.

If you do not want to plank the lower part of the hull, continue to Stage 29.

Planking the hull

Cut to size and plank the rear part of the hull with mahogany strips.

Moisten and bend the mahogany strips to adapt them to the curvature of the hull.

Then, fix the strips in place using wood glue or fast-drying adhesive and small nails (A).

Continue along the entire length of the hull, adjusting the strips at the stern.

As you add more strips, you will need to adjust them at the bow as shown in the image.

See how the strips should be adjusted around the stern area of the hull.

Refer to the image to see the appearance of the rear of the hull.

Refer to the image to see the appearance of the front of the hull.

Use a flat file to file down the nail heads until they are flush with the planking.

Sand the entire hull planking to make it smooth and even.

Apply clear varnish over the entire hull planking if you wish to preserve the natural color of the wood. If you intend to paint the upper part, varnish only the mahogany planking.

Construct the hull support from parts 6.14 to 6.16 (board 2001-25).

Glue some battens 6.17 (2 x 5 x 259 mm, supplied in pack 3) evenly spaced.

Parts 6.18 to 6.21 form the stem of the ship.

Glue the parts together as shown in the picture.

File the planks in the bow area to allow the stem to be inserted.

Insert and glue the stem into the bow of the hull.

Adjust the sternpost, part 6.24, to fit the stern.

Glue the part 6.24 and use a sander to even it out with the false keel.

Glue piece 6.25 to extend the keel. Then align it with the sternpost.

Using a round file, create a groove at the front of the hull.

File to achieve the correct angle between the groove and the stem.

Use part MT24 to carry out checks and adjustments.

The MT24 piece will rest on the top of the stem and in the groove.

Glue part 6.26 properly adjusted and centred on part 6.27 as shown (supplied with pack 2).

Match part 6.27 with part 6.26. Then sand the top of both pieces to a height of 20 mm.

Position the assembly as shown in the picture.

Check that part MT24 fits into the hole in part 6.27, and that it rests on the flats of the stem and false keel. When this is done, glue parts 6.26 and 6.27 centred on the deck. Reserve part MT24 for later use.

Use a sanding block to round off the end of part 6.28 and fit it to the stern of the boat as shown in step 7.

Round off the edge with the recesses on part 6.28.

Present the rudder blade at the stern of the boat and adjust the rudder height.

Use a saw or similar to mark the grooves that simulate the rudder blade planking.

Use a drill to drill four holes in each part 6.29 (see image in step 11).

Sand and varnish the parts with varnish.

Drill holes for the insertion of eyebolts B and H-rings in parts 6.29 as shown in the picture.

Make the parts indicated in the picture using the deck plan as a guide. Use 2 x 6 mm mahogany strips (supplied in pack 5).

Insert and fix a pin J (supplied in pack 5) in each hole.

Make parts 6.34 and 6.35 with reference to the deck plan. Use 2 x 5 mm lime wood (supplied in pack 4).

Make ten pieces as shown in the picture. Use 3x3mm lime wood strips cut to appx. 7mm, and parts 6.37 supplied in pack 5.

Build the pin rails as shown in the picture. Then varnish all the wooden parts.

Cut to size the pieces 6.38 (6 x 6 mm African walnut). These are to be used to make the anchor davits.

Use a drill to drill the seven holes indicated in the picture in each piece.

Polish a brass reinforcement strip 6.39 with a green scouring pad (used for cleaning kitchen utensils).

Use flat nose pliers to shape the part 6.39.

Fit and glue parts 6.39 to parts 6.38.

In the picture you can see how the parts will look with the reinfrocement strips in place.

Cut parts 6.40 and 6.41 to the required dimensions (1 x 3 x 4 mm limewood), then glue them together and onto the davits, making sure they are symmetrical to form the two assemblies shown in the photo. Then sand both pieces down to 3 mm and smooth their edges.

Cut the davits to size.

Then make a bevel as shown in the picture.

Apply varnish to the two davits.

Drill holes to insert an eyebolt B with its ring H, and a point A in each davit. Then insert a point A into the upper part of each davit.

Cut to size the four pieces 6.42 (3 x 3 x 70 mm lime wood). These are to be used to make the davits for the boats.

Bend brass reinforcement strip 6.43 to size.

Fit and glue reinforcement strips 6.43 to the davits 6.42.

Drill the holes indicated in the picture in each davit.

Make and fix the parts 6.44 and B as shown in the illustration. Round off the end of the davits and drill a ø1mm hole in them. Varnish the four completed davits.

Insert and glue the parts 6.46 into the base 6.45.

Then insert and glue the parts 6.47 and 6.48.

This structure will serve as a template for bending the parts that will form the transom of the hull.

Sand one of the parts 6.49 and soak it in water for about 15 minutes.

Remove excess water with a blotting paper. Place part 6.49 on the jig to check its fit.

Hold the piece in place with masking tape or tweezers. Leave it for a few hours until it dries and follows the curve of the template. You can speed up the process by applying heat with an iron or hot air gun.

Remove the masking tape and glue the other part 6.49, aligning the window holes of both parts. Hold the parts in place until the adhesive has dried.

Present the transom at the stern of the hull to check its adjustment.

The aft hull area must be sanded to allow the transom to fit.

Reposition the transom on the hull to ensure it fits properly. Separate the transom from the hull and set it aside for later use.